Joelle Thomson

Wine writer and award winning wine author


What I am drinking, reading and savouring each week

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Maude Wines turns 30

"If in doubt, do it"

Determination, blind optimism and a steep north facing slope were three of the key ingredients in the formation of Maude Wines, which turns 30 this year. 

The wines have paid "unimaginable dividends both in terms of wine excellence and family unity," says second generation winemaker Sarah-Kate Dineen, who is the daughter of the founders and makes the wines today with her husband, Dan Dineen.

It is an incredible privilege to share their journey, both in the glass and the story that Sarah-Kate has taken the time to share. It was her parents, Dawn and Terry Wilson, who moved from Southland to the Maungarewa Valley in Wanaka to start Maude Wines in 1994.

Maude wine reviews

Reviews of Maude wines will follow this week and, without spoiling the surprise, the Rieslings have aged incredibly well and retain youthfulness even at 10 years of age, as well as developing the depth of impeccably aged Riesling from an ideal climate - Central Otago. 

Watch this space. 

Sarah-Kate's wine story

Where were you born and bred and where do you live now?

I was born in a Southland town called Winton. It's a small town. I was bred between Winton and the even smaller alpine town (when I was growing up) of Wanaka. Every winter and summer we escaped the south and headed to our crib (bach) in Wanaka and this is where we call home now. 

What sparked the beginnings of Maude Wines?

Generation one, Dawn and Terry Wilson (Mum and Dad) began Maude Wines by planting the Mt Maude vineyard in the Maungawera Valley just outside of Wanaka.  The vineyard is 30 years old this year, quite the milestone. We are now three generations deep at Maude Wines.

When and how did you become involved?

Dan and I are the second generation. Dan and I met in the Hunter Valley, Australia, where we were both winemaking, honing our skills on the delicate Semillon and Shiraz or Hunter River Burgundy, as it was called because it was more akin to Pinot Noir than Shiraz. After 10 years working in Australia for me (Dan is an Aussie) we decided it was time to join the family and the very promising region of Central Otago. We arrived back to Wanaka, built a winery and started the search for vineyards which worked with the style of Pinot Noir we wanted to make.   

When was the first time you loved a wine?

Two wines for me. I remember as a student of wine at Lincoln University learning to recognise a wine by smelling or tasting it made it your favourite. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, in particular Oyster Bay, was so distinctive, recognisable and affordable to a poor uni' student, it was a luxury at the time.

I think the first time I truly loved a wine was tasting the 1994 Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet Grand Cru. It blew my mind, I can still remember the aroma and taste almost 20 years on. 

What is the most challenging thing about winemaking?

The most challenging thing about winemaking is satisfying your aspiration to make the best possible wine from a season you can’t control.  Central Otago and it’ weather patterns play a big part in this challenge. Unlike Australia, where we found the seasons more predictable, Central Otago experiences more dramatic seasonal conditions. Frost in spring and autumn, cool weather during flowering and fruit set, drought conditions and cool ripening months all alter the potential of the harvest and quality of the wines made from that season.  The challenge makes it interesting and, having made wine in Central Otago for nearly 20 years now, the ability to draw on experience from past vintages is a serious plus. 

What do you love most about winemaking in the region you are in now?

We are maturing as a region in the vineyards and in our work as growers and winemakers. There is a sense of transparency in the wines. I think as winemakers we have exhaled a bit, realising the wines have substance without an overactive winemaking hand and allowing Pinot Noirs in particular to express their sense of place.

Favourite wine region outside of Aotearoa?

Barolo is my nNw favourite wine region after visiting last year. 

How is the cheesemaking progressing? 

I so wanted to master cheese making. Unfortunately, aside from brilliantly squeeky haloumi, my other offerings paled in comparison to anything you could buy at the local deli.

And the maple trees / syrup project - is that something you are mastering?

The Maple trees are now 20 years old at Mt Maude, producing a decent amount of fabulous maple syrup each year. Decent, not commercial, but maybe one day. 

How do you unwind after vintage?

Vintage is an all consumingeight weeks of the year. My unwinding after vintage is reconnecting with friends and family, typically over a gin and tonic. 

Favourite music?

Anything kiwi. I love to support home grown.

Top book?

Probably I am Pilgrim by Terry Hayes

Go to wine or liquid beverage?

Botanist Gin and tonic.

Best life advice you’ve ever been given or read? 

If in doubt, do it.