When an owner of one of the world's southernmost vineyards camped out in the centre of one of the world's northernmost wine regions, he saw differences as well as similarities. Those vineyards are, respectively, in Alexandra in Central Otago and along vineyards on the hill from Aloxe-Corton in the Côte de Beaune north to Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy.
The regions of Central Otago and Burgundy are best known for their Pinot Noir and, in Burgundy also for Chardonnay. So it makes sense that there might be similarities but, as the style, quality and price of wines from both show us, there are potentially even more differences. Both are features of Phil Handford's story. He is one of the co-owners of Grasshopper Rock Vineyard in Alexandra and will share his thoughts on this site in a future post, coming soon.
In the meantime, here is our wine of the week; an apt lead into Pinot Noir NZ 2025 to be held in mid February in Ōtautahi Christchurch. It is the first international Pinot Noir conference in New Zealand in the past eight years and will see a vast number of international wine media attend. This is the first year I have not attended, however, my professional and personal passion for Pinot Noir continue unabated, along with a desire to continue to see the great evolution in the styles and quality of Pinot Noirs from Aotearoa New Zealand. This country's Pinot Noirs have evolved beyond recognition, in some regions, although ironically the small, edgy and southern area of Alexandra was one of the first places where great Pinot Noir has been produced in this country. Without further ado, here's my review of Grasshopper Rock's latest.
Wine of the week
19/20
2022 Grasshopper Rock Earnscleugh Vineyard RRP $45
This is a silky southern expression of Pinot Noir from Earnscleugh Vineyard, which is situated just outside of Alexandra; the easternmost viticultural area in Otago. The 2022 harvest was one of the easiest for many years with slightly warmer temperatures and no weather pressure to pick the grapes prior to ripeness, although there were fewer grapes than optimal with a reduction of five to 10% on average but high quality, clean looking fruit from the still, warm weather. This has resulted in a deep ruby hued wine with aromas of dark cherries, ripe strawberries and earthy hints on the mid palate. The wine was aged in oak barriques for 10 months with 28% new oak, which is relatively modest and really suits the lighter fruit flavour spectrum in this lively, fleshy Pinot Noir, which has great structural acidity framing the fruit core of the wine. It drinks well now and will age superbly for up to eight years, potentially longer, as the history of good vintages of Grasshopper Rock Pinots shows.
